Hemstitch sewing-machine.



' L. ONDERDONK.

HEMSTITGH SEWING MACHINE, APPLIUATION FILED FBBJS, 1902.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

Patented June 28, 1910.

L. ONDBRDONK.4 HEMSTITGH SEWING MACHINE,

.y APPLIUATION FILED Huma, 1902. 962,973. Patenteuune 28, 1910.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

L. 0NDERD01\IKl HEMSTITGH SEWING MACHINE,

APPLICATION FILED FEB. 1B; 1902.

Patented June 28, 1910.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

' Hoz/n Ms Ihm/Ufo@ z mi may WW1/wow@ L. ONDERDONK. HEMSTITGH SEWING MACHINE, APPLIOATION FILED FBBJB, 1902.

PatentedA June 28, 1910.

l5 SHEETS-SHEET. 5

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.-

LANSING ONDERDONK, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR `'10 UNION SPECIAL SEWING MACHINE CO., OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

HEMSTITCI-I SEWING-MACHINE.

spenicatign of Letters Patent.

Patented June 28, y1910.

Application tiled February 18, 1902. Serial No. 94,589.

This invention relates to machines for producing hemstitching, or open-work stitching, such as is used on handkerchiefs, bed and table linen, etc.

The object of the invention is to provide a machine which can produce leither a single or a double hemstitch, at the will of the operator; which may be operated at high speed; and whose structure is simple and durable.

The invention consists in the matters hereinafter described and claimed.

In the accompanying drawings which illustrate the invention Figure l is a front and F ig. 9. a rear elevation of the machine; Fig. la is a detail enlarged view showing the relation of the needles, loopers and spreader; Fig. 3 is an elevation of the head end of the machine; Fig. il is a perspective detail of a portion of the feeding mechanism; Fig. 5 is a side and Fig. an end view of the loop-spreading mechanism; Fig. 7 is a plan of the spreading fork; Fig. S is a perspective detail of the presser foot; Fig. 9 is a perspective view of the piercer-s, needles aml the opening awl; Fig. l0 is a bottom view; and Fig. l1 a top view of the work, showing the stitch structure. Fig. l2 is a detail view showing the spreaders as engaging the looper threads to position the same for the passing of the needles.

The stitch-forming mechanism consists of two complete, but independent.sets of stitchforming elements, the respective needles, loopers and spreaders of which are arranged one behind the other in the direction of feed. This arrangement of stitch-forming mechanism permits a double hemstitch effect to be produced, viz., a symmetrical stitch having the same appearance on opposite, or both, sides of a line marking the central portion of the hemstiteh. or ligure.

Details of the machine, not involved in m v invention. will not be specifically referred to, only such reference heilig lnade thereto as will enable a clear understanding to be obtained. It may here be noted, moreover, that this machine includes a ta ke-up and tension mechanism of a character' suitable for properly controlling the threads, setting the stitches and draw un' the binding threads properly abo: th strands of the fabric or work, so as to produce the proper hemstitch effect.

The main power shaft is shown at A, and

as having fixed thereto three eccentrics B, C

and D, properly disposed to produce the desired operation of the mechanisms actuated thereby. The eccentric B reciprocates vertically the two needle-bars l, 2, through the medium of the strap b', lever b2, and link connection Z13, the latter being made in two parts, each having pivotal connection with the lever b2, and, respectively, with the needle bars. This allows simultaneous vertical reciprocation of the needle bars and permits independent lateral vibration thereof, as in ne machine of my application No. 81,763, tiled November 9th, 1901. The loopers 3, 4, are also actuated from lever b2, by pitman d', the loopers being carried by an arm d2, pivoted to a rocking frame cl3, actuated by the eccentric D, this being a common construction.

The lateral vibration of the needle bars is imparted by a cam C, of suitable form, fixed to a short vertical shaft C, adjacent the main shaft, and actuated from the latter by aV small worm-gear a, meshing with a large worm-gear c', formed upon the periphery of the disk having' the cam c. The cam c is shown as a groove inl which runs an anti-friction roll, carried by an arm c?, on a vertical shaft c3, sleeved in a bracket arm c4, supported by the frame of the machine in any suitable manner. The upper end of the shaft c3 has a double armed extension c, said arms being Islot-ted for the reception of bolts, to which are respectively pivotally connected the links o5, c, which have a suitable adjustable connection with the respective needle bar carriers c, c, 'which are pivotally supported upon a vertical rod or bar, preferably the presser bar P, for compactness. It may be here noted, that, in size, the worm-gears a and c, have a ratio of one-to-three, for a purpose to be hereafter indicated.

The forward end of the main shaft has fixed thereto a cam-grooved disk S, in which runs an anti-friction roll carried by the upper prong s, of a bifurcated bar s, pivoted vertically at its rear end to a short standard 8X, projecting from the frame. The forward end of the other prong 82, has pivoted thereto a vertical bar or carrier, s3, for the spreaders, said carrier having two oppositely extending lugs or pins, s4, 85, the front one being operated upon by the looper rocking frame, and the back one entering, and being guided in, a socket in the prong s, where it is acted upon by an expansion spring s, which normally throws the spreader-bar toward the rocking frame. The spreader consists of a bifurcated plate S, secured to the upper end of the carrier-bar and disposed horizontally and slightly above the path of movement of the loopers and with its prongs extending in the same general direction as the loopers.

When the loopers move forward into the needle loops, the loop spreading fingers are at one side of the loopers. After the loopers have entered t-he needle loops, they are moved sidewise as is usual in this type of machine, to avoid the needle and in this side movement of the loopers, the looper frame Z3 engages the spreader supporting inember, and rocks the same so that the spreaders are moved across the upper faces of the respectiveloopers and thus brought into contact with the looper threads. As shown in Fig. l2, t-he bifurcated plate S forms two curved spaced spreader fingers S, and these fingers engaging the respective looper threads 3a, 4ta, which run from the eye of the loopers to the previous interlocking of the needle and looper threads, and carries said looper threads to one side as clearly shown in this figure. The spreader fingers S6 may also engage the needle loops which at this time surround the shank of the loopers, and extend to the previous interlocking of the threads. It will readily be seen that these fingers operate to carry each looper thread away from the body of its looper and they will also tend to hold the needle loop on each looper well back on the shank thereof, so that the needle in its neXt descent, may pass into the usual triangle formged by the looper thread, the needle loop, and the body of the looper, Ithus making the interlocking of the threads. This arrangement of the spreaderl fingers is of great advantage in a machine of this kind, wherein the feed is idle while a certain number of stitches are being formed. It will be understood of course, that the spreader moves in an elliptical path, the same as the loopers.

The piercers are carried by a suitable head, or block, E, fiXed to the vertical bar e, supported in the head of the machine'so as to slide therein. The bar e, has fiXed thereto, near the upper end, a cross-head e, of any suitable form, to which is loosely connected at one end a link e2, the other end of which is nected to the strap cx, which is actuated by.

the eccentric C. The connection between the strap 0X, and arm c5, is made adjustable in any suitable mannen-that shown being a series of apertures e, in the arm receiving a screw e7, with a rounded head affording a pivoted connection with the strap cX,-so as to regulate and adjust the vertical movement of the bar e, carrying the piercers. The bar e, at its upper end, is provided with a fixed arm es, which coperates with a-bracket arm e9, in any suitable manner to prevent rotary movement of said bar in its bearings. The cooperation here shown, between the fixed arm es, and bracketarm e9, is afforded by a sliding connection, provided by a bifurcation in the former receiving the latter. The block E, supports the piercers in any suitable manner and number. As shown in the drawings, the piercers consist of arms, or blades, 5, 6, adjustably supported in bracket pieces of any suitable form, the means of adjustment being by screws binding the arms, or blades, insockets of the bracket pieces. There may be several ,bracket pieces, as shown, or, obviously, a single bracket piece may be provided to support all the arms or blades. As shown, two bracket pieces 7, 8, are provided, one at each end or side of the block E, and suitably slotted to provide for longitudinal adjustment thereof by screws. The shape of the pieces 7, 8, is immaterial, the object being to so shape and dispose. them as to enable them to support the piercers in proper position in the path of movement of the co operating needles and, relatively, one behind the other in the line of feed. Each piercer is properly grooved on the side adjacentthe needle which cooperates with it, so that the point of each may penetrate the fabric in substantially the same place during certain of the operations of the machine.

It has been found advantageous to provide a piercer in the nature of an awl, viz., sharp pointed and quite small, to make a preliminary penetration in the fabric, the hole made thereby being subsequently easily entered and enlarged by the piercers proper. Such an implement is shown at 9, located in advance of the piercers and in line' therewith in the direction of feed. It has also been found advantageous to provide an additional implement for the pur ose of rounding, or nicely shaping, the ho es after the stitches have been completed.V Such implement should be of proper shape and size to give the desired effect, and should also be in line with the piercers in the direction of feed, but in rear thereof and of the needles. 7?

An implement of this character is shown at l0 in Fig. 9, and may be termed a rounder or shapen The shaper or rounder will have a conformation suitable to the effect desired, and may be round, triangular, rectangular, or polygonal; in fact, may have a shape to produce any desired appearance in the open work, or hemstitch structure, which should be neat and uniform.

In machines of this character, the feed does not, ordinarily, operate at the end of every stitch; and in this machine feeding mechanism is provided for securing a feed of the work only after every third stitch. Such feed mechanism consists of a bar F, supporting the dog f, at or near one end, and being journaled in a rocking frame f', at or near its other end. The frame f, is suitably journaled on the main frame, has a curved arm f2, extending toward the end of the main shaft, where it is pivotally connected, in any suitable manner, to an actuating crank disk f3 carried by said main shaft. This mechanism provides for the longitudinal movement of the feed bar, which movement amounts to a reciprocation for each rotation of the main shaft.. All of these reciprocations are not, however, effective feed movement-s, only one in every three having a feeding function, as hereafter noted.

On the vertical shaft C', is also fixed a cam f4, shown as a groove, in which runs an anti-friction roll carried by the end of a crank-arm f5, on one end of a horizontal shaft f, which has at its other end an oppositely extending crank-arm f7, pivotally connected,-as by a link f8, to the outer end of the feed-bar. The cam'f4, is provided with two levels, the more extensive one f, being higher than the shorter one flo. This arrangement, coupled with the three-to-one ratio of operation between shaft C and main shaft A, provided by the difference in size of the worm-gears, secures a depression of the feed-dog,below the throat-plate,- during two complete reciprocations thereof, and provides for the elevation and maintenance of the feed-dog in contact with the work at the proper time and during the necessary interval for advancing the same. The ratio of operation above noted, coupled with the form of cam c, also secures the proper timing for the vibrations and reciprocations of the needle-bars, the effect being two vertical reciprocations for one lateral vibration.

The presser-bar P, carries at its lower end a head p, to which are pivoted, side by side,

two angle-levers 7)', the horizontal portion of each of which carries a foot pivoted' pressure of which is adjustable by screws p3, which pass through an extension of the head and impinge each upon a branch of a sprino'. The bar P may be lifted by any suitab e means, as a lever L, and depressed by a suitable spring, as T, and prevented from turning axially by any suitable means, as a cross bar p4, cooperating with the bracket post p5.

In addition to the foregoing detailed description of the mechanisms of my machine, and their mode of operation, it remains only necessary to describe generally, the coperation of the several parts.

It i s first to be noted that a single hemstitch effect may be produced on one or the other side of a line marking the center of a double hemstitch, by throwing out of operation one of the stitch-forming mechanisms, as by adjusting the end of a link c5 along the slotted head c until it becomes coincident with the axis of oscillation thereof, and then removing the needle thread.

The fabric having been placed in the machine under thcrneedles, and the machine started, thefirst punctures will be made by f the piercers and needles substantially at the same time, though this is not essential, and thereafter the piercers and needles will enter and enlarge holes which have been previously made by the preliminary awl. Before a feed of the work takes place, the needles will enter the fabric, probably single-thick, then move aside in opposite directions and enter the fabric again, probably a hem or double-thick, and then move back and enter the first puncture in the fabric. The feed then takes place to advance the fabric and the same operations are repeated. -Vhen the stitches are drawn and set the threads will be caused to draw together the strands or fiber .of the work between punctures or openings, and the shaper or rounder, enter- I ing in succession each opening, will properly shape and form the latter, so as to produce a uniform appearance or hem.

It is desired to lay particular stress upon the character of stitch made by this machine, for, though it is not in itself new, it has a peculiar function or effect in connection with the material operated upon and the elements employed which go to make up a hem stitch machine. That is to say, the two-thread looped stitch, or the concatenated loops of the stitch, when properly Set or drawn in, will shirr, or gather in the strands o1" fiberl of the work, at the sides of the opening, and be drawn down quite close to said sides of the openings, giving a finished corded appearance quite similar to a button-hole purl. This is an appearance, function and effect which cannot be produced by hemstitch machines of the lock-stitch or single chainstitch types, and the advantageous results will be apparent when the light and flimsy character of the material operated upon and the peculiar nature of the work done are taken into consideration. It will thus be clear that a hemstitch is produced which is uniform, neat and durable. The hemstitch will be either right or left according towhich stitch form-ing mechanism is employed, or will be double if both are used. Moreover, the width of the hemstitch considered as awhole, may be regulated according to taste or desire, by adjusting the links |5- relative to the axis of oscillation of the head 014. In thus increasing or decreasing the width of the hemstitch, piercers, shapers, etc., varying accordingly in size, may or may not be employed, this depending upon whether' enlarged open-work is desired, or merely an appearance of increased or decreased breadth in the hemstitch is desired, by changing the lateral throw of the needle.

Having thus described my invention, and' pointed out the best form in which I have contemplated using the same, what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is l. In a chain stitch hemstitch machine, suitable stitch-forming mechanism including a thread-carrying needle, means for vibrating it laterally, and a thread-carrying looper coperating with said needle, and means for vibrating said looper into and out of the needle loop, whereby a double thread chain stitch is formed, a feeding mechanism, with means for imparting to it its various movements, including mechanism to allow it to remain'idle while certain stitches are being formed, said needle-vibrating means operating to vibrate said needle laterally while the feed is idle; substantially as described.

2. In a chain stitch hemstitch machine, suitable stitch-forming mechanism including a thread-carrying needle, means for vibrating it laterally, and a thread-carrying looper coperating with said needle, a feeding mechanism, with means for imparting to it its various movements, including mechanism to allow it to remain idle while certain stitches are being formed, said needle-vibrat- -ing means operating to vibrate said needle laterally while the feed is idle, and a spreader coperating with the looper; substantially as described.

3. In a chain stitch hemstitch machine, suitable stitch forming mechanism including a thread carrying needle, means for vibrating it laterally, a piercer coperating therewith, a thread carrying looper coperating withk said needle, a feeding mechanism with means for imparting to it its various movements including mechanism to allow it to remain idle while certain stitches are being formed and a spreader coperating with the looper; substantially as described.

4. A hemstitch sewing machine, comprising two independent vertically and laterally movable needle bars, means for imparting esas-73 independent lateral movement thereto, means for simultaneously reciprocating the needle bars vertically, and a suitable piercer coperating with the needle of each bar, a threadcarrying looper coperating with each needle, and spreaders coperating with said loopers; substantially as described.

5. A hemstitch sewing machine, comprising two independent vertically and laterally movable needle bars, means for imparting independent lateral movement thereto, means for simultaneously reciprocating the needle bars vertically, a suitable piercer cooperating with the needle of each bar, a shaping instrument in rear of said piercers, and an awl in front of the piercers; substantially as described.

6. A hemstitch sewing machine, comprising two independent vertically and laterally movable needle bars, adjusting devices to adjust the needle bars into and out of line, means for imparting independent lateral movement to the needle bars, means for adjusting the length of stroke of such lateral movement, means for simultaneously reciprocating the needle bars vertically, piercers coperating with the needles carried by the needle bars; substantially as described.

7. A hemstitch sewing machine, having stitch-forming mechanism including two independent needle bars, means for imparting independent lateral bodily movement to said needle bars, means for imparting simultaneous vertical movement to said needle bars, a feeding mechanism with means for causing it to feed the fabric after a series of stitches has been made, a piercer coperating with each needle, and thread carrying loopers coperating with each needle spreaders coperating with said loopers whereby a multiplex double loop hemstitch is made, having a purl edge finish; substantially as described. 4

8. A hemstitch sewing machine, comprising a vertically reciprocating piercer, means for giving such movement including a horizontal shaft provided with a plurality of crank-arms, one of which has means to pro- Vide for regulating the reciprocations of the piercer; substantially as described.

9. A hemstitch sewing machine, comprising a vertically reciprocating piercer, and lneans for actuating the same, comprising an eccentric and strap, a rock-shaft, and means between said strap and shaft for regulating the reciprocation of the piercer; substantially as described.

10. A hemstitch sewing machine, comprisl the awl and piercers transversely to the reciprocating movement;A substantially as de- Y scribed.

11. A hemstitch se machine, comprising a plurality ofvertically reciprocating and laterally vibrating needles, with means for simultaneously reciprocating them and kindependently vibrating them laterally, a feeding mechanism with means for actuating the feeding mechanism after every third stitch-forming operation, a. plurality of piercers, and means for vertically reciprocating the piercers in unison with the movements of the stitch-forming mechanisms, each of said piercers being provided with Ia groove for the passage of the needle, substantially as described.

12. A hemstitch sewing machine, comprisl ing a plurality of vertically reciprocating and laterally vibrating needle bars, means for imparting thereto simultaneous vertical reciprocation and independent lateral vib ration, and a feeding mechanisml comprising a feed bar, a rock shaft for actuating the same vertically, and a cam for actuating said rock shaft having operating surfaces in diiferent horizontal planes;v substantially Y as described.

h13.dTheP combiration with a needle, a

t rea carry' oo er co ratin therewith, and meuzis for? vibratlrleg sait? looper into and out of the needle loop, whereby a double thread chain stitch 1is formed, a feeding mechanism with means for imparting to it various movements including mechanism allowing it to remain idle while certain stitches are being formedV and a spreader, with means for o rating said spreader so that the'same is rought into engagement with the looper thread,-and the looper thread properl positioned .for the entrance of the needle between said looper thread and the bodyoftheloo r."

14. The com ination with a needle, a

thread carrying looper coperating therewith, andmeans for vibratlng said looper into and out of the needle loop, whereby a double thread chain stitch is form'ed, a feeding mechanism with means for imparting to it various movements including mechanism allowing it to remain idle while certain stitches are being formed, and a spreader with means for moving said spreader back and forth and laterally 'across the upper face of the looper, whereby the looper thread is engaged and properly positioned for the entrance of the needle between the looper thread and the looper body.

15. A chain stitch hemstitch machine, including in combination means for' support- 60 ing the work, a needle, means for producing a relative lateral movement of the needle and work supporting means, a looper cooperating with said needle, means for vibrating said looperinto and out of the 65 needle loop, whereby a chain of stitches is formed, a feeding mechanism with means forimparting to it various movements including 'mechanism allowing it to remain idle when certain stitches are being formed, and a spreader operating so that the same is brought into engagement with the thread carried by the looper and the same properly positioned for the entrance of the needle betweenthe thread and the body of the looper.

16. The combination with a needle, a looper coperating therewith, means for vibrating said needle into and out of the needle loop, whereby a chain of stitches is formed, a feeding mechanism with means for imparting to it various movements including mechanism allowing it to remain idle when certain stitches are being formed, and a spreader operating so that the same is brought .into engagement with the thread carried by the looper, and the sameproperly positioned for the entrance of the needle be- .,tween said thread andthe body of the looper. l

In testimon whereof I aiiix my signature, in presence o?, two witnesses.

LANSING ONDERDONK.

Witfres'szn owELL,

C. D. CHURCHILL. 

